Beirut to Damascus to Amman, oh my

Day 15 –
Met up with John (back from a mission somewhere, I’m sure) and headed out of Lebanon. Weather was kind of blah – rain and fog – and it made us glad that our hands were being held (in terms of travel arrangements). No exit tax in Lebanon, but the border was pretty crowded. No problems getting into Syria either and John dropped us at the service station at noon. Organized tour or pre-arranged transport lull one into complacency and we were bombarded by the shebab in Damascus. Somebody carried our bags and argued for a pretty nice tip. The official service guy marched us to the appropriate car with loud protests from somebody else. Found another traveler and eventually took off. You have to register – so the service driver took our passports and sauntered back…a while later. Then there’s paperwork before you leave the station and again on the road out – wouldn’t have noticed it as much if the car weren’t a sauna and our other passenger was glaring at the driver…adding to the heat in the car. Made it as far as the turn off for Jordan and our driver pulled over and kicked us out – quickly – into another car. Luckily, the fourth passenger grabbed the passports from the driver, the new driver grabbed the luggage and we were off again.
Huh?
The new driver stopped to pick up olives – conveniently at a place where they sold exit vouchers and we got our vouchers and left. Our new driver was the ultimate Operator. Told us that Noah needed a voucher and when we were in Amman (after being told by Syrian officials that Noah did not require the voucher) he ‘kindly’ offered to take it off our hands. (We played dumb and will give it to someone at ACOR to use.) Got to the Syrian exit point and the driver takes off to duty free to buy two cell phones (for him and the fourth passenger – they’re sharing cigarettes and are fast friends at this point). They throw some trash out the window (between Syria and Jordan) and ask Aaron to mule over the phones. Aaron stuffs them in his coat and we head to the Jordanian checkpoint where all luggage is removed and checked and the driver has to open the hood and the trunk and the car is thoroughly searched. Looking for duty free cell phones, I’m sure. All our bags were checked. We eventually scooted off and the driver ran off to get a Jordanian phone card (?). Just past the last checkpoint, there were a lot of ‘tislamu’s and requests for the mule-d phones, which Aaron produced. Not too much further, the fourth passenger bid us goodbye and we headed to Amman. Noah – having passed the opportunity to have his diaper changed at the border – loaded up a big stinky one (sorry – I’ve run out of polite ways to put that) and demanded to have it changed. After I explained that it can’t happen until the car stops, Noah finally acquiesced and fell asleep – bum up (pee eww) in the seat. We arrived in Amman safely (after seeing a couple serious accidents) and battle, lightly, the Operator over the fare. We dodged the Syrian mafia (not really, but the transport guys can be pushy) and caught a very mellow cab back to ACOR. Noah was still loaded – so to speak – at this point and super crabby because his beauty sleep was interrupted. He perked up immediately when we arrived at ACOR and yelled, “Look, Mama, its Jebel Nuh (Noah Mountain)!!!!” One day, three countries, four backpacks, two adults, and one…Noah – back at ACOR safe and sound. Many thanks for the prayers and well wishes. We had a fantastic journey!