Day 7
Had a great breakfast in the historic dining room of the Baron Hotel and headed off to the Aleppo Museum. Ran into an archaeologist at the entrance who went to UCLA to study archaeology and who worked with the Director of ACOR. After a good schmooze, we trolled the museum. Got trapped by a guide in one of the galleries (“this case is Roman Byzantine, 50-50”) and were compelled to give ‘baksheesh’ (a tip). Noah fixated on a neolithic child skeleton and another skeleton with an arrow buried in the spine. Got lost (not in the suq) looking for the Citadel and finally found the backside. The Citadel is amazing. A tell with the latest layers still pretty much intact. The entrance is fantastic. Climbed down into what we think was a Hellenistic cistern (?) – creepy, stinky, and so cool. Went up to a tower to view Aleppo and brace the sandstorm and then headed down to the Museum, while Noah worked on his daily constitution. (A very cool temple was excavated 8 m down next to the theater – spectacular remains) This kid. We’ve changed diapers in the most interesting places. Weary and crabby, we headed back through the suq and ended up at Bazaar Al Charka for lunch. Really good muhammara. Limped back to the hotel where we’re now resting.
Ahhhh. Everybody napped. And we emerged into a full blown (no pun intended) sandstorm. Noah pondered whether it was one from Egypt or Lebanon. “If its red, its from Lebanon, Mama.” Wandered into the Christian quarter and into a courtyard of a church. Was beautiful with trees in the center. French tourists with kids (and strollers!?!?) were hot on our heels, so we took off and went to Kan Zeman for dinner. Had a delicious dinner with some sort of date paste/yogurt dessert. Noah was lamenting not finding any knights at the Citadel (he was looking – let me assure you. At every turn, he would ask, “is there a knight in here?”). He explained it by noting, “they [the knights] died a long time ago, you know.” Managed to find a delicious Lebanese wine, Fakra, fruit, water, and pita on our way back to the hotel. Mr. Walid caught us before we headed upstairs and tried to give Noah a watch. Noah did a much better job than his folks and said, “Well, thank you, but I don’t watch a watch.” Dunked the Dude the in shower before putting him to bed.
Deep thoughts for the evening…
- Why are there so many veiled women in the Christian quarter?
- Is there any regularity to blackouts in Syria?
- Are we really being followed or am I just being paranoid? Does it matter?
- Why is my son still awake?